Start With Control Lines, Not the First Brick
Experienced masons don’t start with mortar; they start with reference lines. Good layout lets you work faster and correct fewer mistakes later.
Begin by snapping chalk lines where your wall or paving will sit. For a straight run, pull a tight mason’s line between two firm points—stakes, corner blocks, or existing structure. If you’re working off a building, measure from the structure at multiple points to confirm the line is parallel, then lock that layout in with chalk and string.
For right angles, use the 3‑4‑5 method or a larger multiple (6‑8‑10, 9‑12‑15) for better accuracy: mark 3 feet on one line, 4 on the other, and adjust until the diagonal reads 5 feet. On long runs, re‑check squareness at several intervals; a small error at one end can become a visible twist by the time you reach the other.
Before you ever open a bag of mortar, dry‑lay a short section along your lines. This confirms joint width, shows you where cuts will fall, and reveals tight or stretched areas early. If the pattern forces sliver cuts at the ends, adjust the layout now by shifting center lines or slightly adjusting joint width within acceptable tolerance.
Use Story Poles and Course Marks Instead of Guessing Heights
Keeping courses consistent is where many DIY builds drift out of level. The pro solution is a story pole—your “ruler” for the entire wall.
Take a straight 2×4 or similar board and measure out each course height: block or brick height plus your target joint thickness (typically 3/8 in for standard brick, 3/8–1/2 in for many blocks—check manufacturer recommendations). Mark each course clearly, numbering as you go. If your wall has features—lintels, ledger bolts, window sills, control joints—mark those positions on the same pole.
Stand the story pole at corners and key points and mark the same course heights on your corner units or leads. As you build up, check that your actual courses hit those marks. If you find a joint running fat or thin, correct it in the next couple of courses rather than letting the error accumulate.
On longer walls, use the story pole to transfer consistent heights around corners and returns. This prevents the common problem of courses “meeting wrong” when two sections of work tie into each other. For retaining walls or structural elements, it also helps align with engineering requirements for geogrid, reinforcement, and drainage components.
Let Your String Line and Level Do the Thinking
The best masons don’t trust their eye; they trust their line and level. Done right, these tools become your quality control team.
Once your corners or leads are set, stretch a mason’s line along the face of the wall at each course height. Avoid wrapping the line around the brick or block—the line should run on line blocks, line pins, or dedicated line holders so it stays true and doesn’t bow. Pull it tight enough that it “sings” when plucked lightly.
As you lay units, bring the face just shy of the line so the line barely kisses but never bows. If the line deflects, you’re proud; if you see daylight where there shouldn’t be, you’re shy. Check with a torpedo or 2‑foot level across the top of each new unit, and every few courses, use a 4‑foot or longer level or a laser level to verify both level (horizontal) and plumb (vertical).
When working in heat or sun, string can sag slightly over time. Reset long lines periodically, especially above 10–12 feet, and verify intermediate points with your level. On windy days, drop the line closer to the work or use heavier line to reduce flutter that can mislead your eye.
Plan Joints, Movement, and Reinforcement Before You Lay a Single Course
Layout isn’t only about lines and levels—it’s also about how the wall will move and carry load over time. This is where planning joints and reinforcement up front saves structural and cosmetic headaches later.
For brick veneer and long masonry walls, decide in advance where control or expansion joints will go. These should align with building movement joints, corners, and major openings whenever possible. Many building codes and engineering references suggest maximum spacing ranges (for example, often 20–30 feet for brick veneer, depending on design and exposure), but you should always confirm with local code, engineering guidance, or manufacturer literature.
If your wall needs reinforcement—such as vertical rebar in grouted cores, horizontal joint reinforcement, or geogrid in retaining walls—mark locations on your plans and transfer them to your story pole and foundation. This ensures you don’t accidentally block a core that should stay open or forget a reinforcement course that can’t be added later.
Coordinate weep holes and flashing at the layout stage. For brick veneer over framed walls, plan the first course height to work cleanly with flashing and weep locations—typically just above grade. Mark these on your layout so you’re not improvising around them once bricks are already stacked and jointed.
Use Dry Runs and Sample Panels to Lock In Your Finished Look
Before committing to a full wall, professionals often create a low‑risk “trial run” to align expectations, especially when aesthetics matter.
Start with a small mock‑up panel or a representative corner, using the same units, mortar type, sand, and joint profile you plan to use on the main project. This helps you confirm color, joint thickness, and overall pattern before the work is too far along to change without major rework.
Use this mock‑up to dial in joint tooling timing: mortar should be thumbprint hard—not wet and smeary, not so dry that tooling tears the joint. Mark how long this takes under current weather conditions, then adjust your work pace and jointing sequence so you stay within that sweet spot.
A dry run also lets you test how small field adjustments affect the finished look. On patterned pavers or decorative brickwork, you can see whether slight joint variations are visible from normal viewing distance, whether your soldier courses or borders frame the field correctly, and how cuts land at edges and obstacles.
Once everyone is satisfied—whether that’s just you or a client and inspector—take reference photos and notes. Treat this mock‑up as your standard moving forward, checking periodically that your in‑progress work continues to match it.
Conclusion
Masonry layout isn’t glamorous, but it’s where skilled craft shows up long before anyone notices clean joints or tight corners. By starting with accurate control lines, using story poles for consistent heights, relying on string lines and levels instead of guesswork, planning movement and reinforcement early, and validating your choices with mock‑ups, you set yourself up for straighter, truer, and more durable work. These habits cost a little time at the beginning and save a lot of time—and repair money—at the end.
Sources
- [The Brick Industry Association – Technical Notes](https://www.gobrick.com/Technical-Notes) - Provides engineering‑backed guidance on brick layout, movement joints, and best practices for brick masonry.
- [Portland Cement Association – Masonry Construction](https://www.cement.org/learn/concrete-technology/concrete-construction/masonry-construction) - Covers fundamentals of masonry walls, reinforcement, and construction techniques.
- [NCMA (National Concrete Masonry Association) Resources](https://ncma.org/resources/) - Offers technical documents on concrete masonry unit (CMU) design, layout, and structural considerations.
- [U.S. General Services Administration – Masonry (Design & Construction)](https://www.gsa.gov/real-estate/design-construction/engineering/masonry) - Federal design and construction criteria for masonry, including movement joints and durability.
- [International Code Council – International Building Code (IBC) Overview](https://codes.iccsafe.org/content/IBC2021P1) - Reference for structural and code requirements that influence masonry layout, reinforcement, and detailing.